
Joseph Shivers wanted to make better underwear women.
In many ways, he was the predeccessor of Sara Blakely, the woman who created Spanx, and the founding father of shapewear.
At first, he was "working on a project to develop a synthetic elastomer to replace rubber, then the mainstay of foundation garments,” according to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.
The idea was to create more comfortable underwear and girdles, but the original project failed.
“Unable to find a fiber that would snap back like rubber, the project was shelved in 1950, but Shivers had learned much about elastomers and his persistence paid off in the early 1950s when he used an intermediate substance to modify Dacron polyester,” the association wrote. “The polymer thickened, bounced and withstood high temperatures.” It came to have the name 'spandex,' which is an anagram of “expands.”
It was revolutionary and has gone on to become one of the most successful materials of all time, but the company behind it, The Lycra Company, has struggled and has now filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy.
Spandex has become so popular that many Americans likely don't know that like Spanx, it was a patented material owned by one company.
Marketed under the brand name Lycra, spandex wasn’t patented until 1958 or introduced to the public until 1962, according to Smithsonian Magazine.
It was an instant hit because it replaced rubber girdles, which were quite uncomfortable.
Lycra had a few important distinctions from rubber that gave it power in the foundation garment market, according to Chemical and Engineering News.
“Always blended with other natural and man-made fibers such as cotton, wool, silk and linen, spandex is lighter in weight than rubber thread. And unlike rubber thread, spandex does not break down with exposure to body oils, perspiration, lotions, or detergents,” the magazine wrote.
In recent years, however, Lycra Company has struggled.
More Bankruptcy:
"A series of headwinds hit the company recently, starting with the disruption to supply chains and reduced consumer demand caused by the pandemic. Elevated inflation and growing competition from low-cost manufacturers in the years that followed, coupled with a weaker than expected recovery in key markets, piled on the pressure," The Edge Malaysia reported.
(The Lycra Company became a Chinese-owned brand in 2019).
In addition, the company was impacted by uncertainty from trade tariffs and the costs of refinancing and debt management efforts.
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Lycra's financial problems have been evident since 2024.
"The firm has about $700 million in dollar bonds, €300 million of euro notes and a term loan of over $150 million due next year, according to data compiled by Bloomberg. To address that maturity wall, Lycra is getting financial advice from bankers at Houlihan Lokey Inc., people with knowledge of the matter told Bloomberg Law at the time.
Those discussions did not resolves the company's financial issues, eventually leading to its filing.
"The prepackaged plan reflects a consensual agreement reached over the course of several months of productive discussions with the company’s key financial creditors. Given the near unanimous support of its stakeholders, the company expects to complete its financial restructuring expeditiously and emerge from the Chapter 11 process within 45 days," according to the press release.
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